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The pre-shipment inspection checklist

One document from the First Order Kit, published in full and free. No email required, because a buyer should be able to judge the quality of a document before paying for it.

The principle

Inspect against the approved specification, not against opinion. Measure the eight points below on every piece in the sample, run the ten checks, and record a number beside every defect. An inspection that produces a feeling rather than a record supports no claim and changes nothing.

How many pieces to inspect

Sample size is set by the order quantity and the acceptable quality limit, not by how much time is available on the day. The table below is the general inspection level used for apparel shipments; if your buyer or your contract names a different level, theirs governs.

Sample size by order quantity
Order quantity Inspect Major defects allowed
151 – 50020 pieces1
501 – 1,20032 pieces2
1,201 – 3,20050 pieces3
3,201 – 10,00080 pieces5
10,001 – 35,000125 pieces7

Take the pieces at intervals through the run rather than from the top of the first carton. The pieces nearest the door are the ones somebody chose.

Measurement points and tolerances

Eight points cover most knit and woven garments. Add whatever is specific to your product — a pocket position, a print placement, a zip length.

Measure flat, relaxed, and record every number
Measurement Tolerance How to take it
Chest, 2.5cm below armhole ±1cm Lay flat, measure across, double it
Body length, HPS to hem ±1cm From high point shoulder, straight down
Shoulder, seam to seam ±0.5cm Across the back, point to point
Sleeve length, shoulder to cuff ±0.7cm Centre of shoulder seam to cuff edge
Cuff opening, relaxed ±0.5cm Measured flat, not stretched
Neck width, seam to seam ±0.5cm Inside the collar, laid flat
Hem width, straight across ±1cm Flat, no tension
Weight per piece ±5% One piece on a 0.01g scale

The ten checks

These are ordered by how much they cost when they are missed, not by how easy they are to make. The first two find most substitutions.

What to check, and what counts as a failure
Check What counts as a fail
Fabric weight Under the approved weight by more than 5%. Weight is the fastest way to find a substitution, and the easiest thing in a specification to misstate.
Colour, against the approved standard Any visible difference under daylight against the signed standard. Not under factory lighting, which flatters everything.
Seam integrity Any seam that opens under a firm hand pull at the seam allowance. Test five pieces across the run, not the one you were shown.
Stitch density Fewer than 8 stitches per inch on a main seam. Count it on the fabric, do not count it off a photograph.
Buttons and hardware Any button that pulls out under a 10kg static load, or any attachment that is loose at the thread. Shake the garment and listen.
Symmetry Visible mismatch between left and right at collar points, pocket placement or sleeve length. Fold the garment in half and look.
Measurement against the approved size chart Any measurement outside tolerance in the table above, on more than the sample count allows.
Labels and care instructions Wrong content, wrong position, or missing fibre composition. This one is a customs problem as well as a quality problem.
Needles and metal contamination Anything that a metal detector flags. Non-negotiable: this is the one defect that can injure a customer.
Packing Polybag gauge, carton count, polybag warnings, or the packing list not matching what is physically in the carton.

Recording the result

A defect with no number beside it does not support a claim. Record, for every check: how many pieces were inspected, how many failed, and the specific measurement or photograph for each failure. Then write one of three decisions and date it — approve, rework, or reject — and send the report the same day.

Two habits make the difference between an inspection and a walk round a factory. Photograph every failure with something for scale in frame, so nobody can dispute what was measured. And keep the packed samples you inspected, in case the goods that arrive are not the goods you saw.

What this checklist is not

It is not a substitute for a third-party inspection on a large or high-value order, and it is not a certification. Nobody who inspects a shipment certifies a factory — that is a different discipline with a different qualification, and conflating the two is how "we inspected it" starts meaning "we guarantee it".

This page is one of five documents

The First Order Kit contains this checklist plus a sample approval form, a production timeline tracker, a fabric sourcing brief and a factory question sheet — PDF + XLSX, $79. See what is inside .

If you would rather model the numbers first, the cost calculator and the MOQ calculator are free and need no email.